Past the glow of casino lights, there’s a cultural treasure that often hides.
By Michael Breedlove

November 13, 1997, was a big day in the tiny town of Cherokee. That’s when the Harrah’s Cherokee Casino officially opened on land owned by the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians, giving North Carolina its first major casino.

“Harrah’s was a game-changer for us,” says Matthew Pegg, executive director at the Cherokee Chamber of Commerce. “The area had gotten a little rundown before it came along, but it single-handedly changed things.”

With nearly $400 million in annual profits, Harrah’s continues to tower over the Cherokee landscape both literally and figuratively. The property is currently undergoing a $633 million expansion that’s set to wrap up next year. In addition to doubling the casino space, the project will add restaurants, a spa, and a 21-story hotel tower.

That’s all good except for one thing. With the hotel stealing the spotlight, visitors are forgetting to take a look outside the shiny casino doors. It’s a trend Pegg has noted, and one he’s working to change.

“I’ve talked with people who come to Cherokee and never leave the casino,” he says. “It’s a little sad, because there’s a lot more here than just gambling. If you don’t get out and explore a little, you’re going to miss a lot.”

With Pegg’s words in mind, we set out to find some of the top things to see, do, and experience in Cherokee—no casino chips required.

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Stroll through Oconaluftee Indian Village. First and foremost, the Oconaluftee Indian Village should be a requisite for any Cherokee trip. Pronounced o-con-uh-luff-tee, the vibrant village is a replication of a Cherokee village in 1760. Wood smoke wafts through the air, tribal music echoes off the trees, and villagers bead jewelry, craft pottery, hull canoes, and much more.

Ride the rivers. Tubers can take refuge in the Oconaluftee River, known for its smooth currents and swimming holes. For $10, you can rent a tube from Cherokee Rapids and take a shuttle upstream. If whitewater is more your speed, the nearby Nantahala River is as good as gets. Book a trip with the Nantahala Outdoor Center, called “one of the best outfitters on the planet” by National Geographic. Guides take you through a relatively tame section of the river with Class II and III rapids, just enough to keep you on your toes.

Get dramatized at Unto These Hills. This legendary production premiered at the Mountainside Theatre in 1950, making it the second-oldest outdoor drama in the country. Despite its age, the show continues to reel in crowds, thanks to an ever-evolving script and impressive sound/lighting additions. The story traces the Cherokee culture throughout its 11,000-year history, hallmarked by a heartbreaking recount of the Trail of Tears. You can catch the show every summer night except Sunday.

Treasure hunt at Qualla Arts and Crafts. Looking for an authentic souvenir? Visit Qualla Arts and Crafts. Part gallery, part museum, Qualla is the oldest Native American arts cooperative in the United States. It prides itself on selling authentic arts and crafts, all of which are made by Native American hands. The showroom is free to enter; workshops and group tours are also available.

Throw a line in the Oconaluftee River. Oconaluftee River recently hosted the U.S. Fly Fishing Championships. The river’s pristine waters are regularly stocked with trout, meaning few anglers go home empty-handed. But before you bait up, you’ll need to get a Cherokee fishing pass, as an N.C. Fishing License won’t fly here. Adults can pick one up at any convenience store in town for $10; children are free.

Golf on high at Sequoyah National. Sequoyah National Golf Club is a par-72 beauty that’s currently ranked as the No. 9 public course in North Carolina. There’s an on-site driving range, putting green, and expansive deck that offers 180-degree views of the surrounding Smokies.

Hike, Bike, and Get Outside. The opportunities for outdoor escapades are endless in Cherokee, as the town sits at the entrance of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. If hiking is on your agenda, start with a trip to the park’s visitor center (two miles north of Cherokee on US-441). There you’ll find a 1.5-mile hiking trail along with park rangers to help you map out other hikes. If there’s one site we’d label a must-see, it’s Mingo Falls, a spectacular 120-foot cascade about five miles from Cherokee. You can access the falls by taking a half-mile trail that starts at the Mingo Falls Campground, just off Big Cove Road.

Aside from hiking, mountain biking is another big draw here. The famed Tsali Trails sit just west of Cherokee, offering 42 miles of paths that overlook Fontana Lake. The trails welcome riders of all skill levels, as difficulty levels range from moderate to maddening.

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Cherokee Chow  
Where to eat along the way.

Paula Deen’s Kitchen. The “Queen of Southern” cuisine opened this 404-seat restaurant inside of Harrah’s earlier this year. It’s the first of three eateries in the hotel’s expansion plans (Ruth’s Chris and BRIO Italian to come next year). 777 Casino Drive. 828-497-7777.

Peter’s Pancakes & Waffles. Known for its large portions and great prices, this breakfast spot is hard to top. 1384 Tsali Blvd. 828-497-5116.

Chestnut Tree Restaurant. We love this place for one reason—the Saturday night seafood buffet. It’s stocked with prime rib, fried shrimp, and king-sized crab legs. 37 Tsalgi Road. 828-497-9181

Granny’s Kitchen. A Cherokee legend, Granny’s features down-home cooking served buffet-style. It’s open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 1098 Painttown Road. 828-497-5010.

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To help plan a getaway, visit cherokee-nc.com. That’s where you’ll find info on many of the area’s attractions along with extensive lodging options, ranging from cabins to campgrounds to brand-name hotels.
-Harrah’s Cherokee: 828-497-7777. www.harrahscherokee.com.
-Sequoyah National: 828-497-3000. www.sequoyahnational.com.
-Nantahala Outdoor Center: 888-905-7238. www.noc.com.
-Cherokee Rapids: 828-736-3535. www.cherokeerapids.com.