Winston-Salem’s Sustainable Local Food Movement.

By Emily Eileen Carter / Photos by J. Sinclair

Lead chef Michael Millan of Rana Loca is committed to local sustainability and a 30-miles-food-to-table concept at his restaurant. “The more you keep things local, the more small farmers and small producers will be able to thrive,” Millan says. “You’re creating business and a local structure—and relationships. They know we care about them.”

In order to realize his vision of a 30-miles-food-to-table concept, the first thing Millan did when he moved to Winston-Salem was develop a relationship with a local farmer. He began to work closely with Nathan Pitts at Shore Farms in Yadkin County to supply the restaurant fresh, organic vegetables. “Our goal at Rana Loca is to be as organic and local as possible. Of course seasons and availability can affect this, but we go a long way toward this.”

The relationship that Millan and Pitts have cultivated is special. All of Rana Loca’s sauces and salsas use hot peppers grown at Shore Farms. Located in Yadkinville, Shore Farms is an OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute)-certified farm that grows a variety of local, seasonal, and specialty organic produce. For Pitts, its founder, this relationship is equally important. “I grew up around here, and it’s nice to build relationships with local chefs and then see your product on a restaurant menu. You feel a connection to the food and the people.”

Often these networks and relationships begin at local farmers markets, where farmers, chefs, and local buyers come together to talk growing, quality, and flavor of the product. For instance, Cary Clifford, owner of Camino Bakery, met several of the producers she buys from at area farmers markets. “We’re a vendor at the Dixie Classic Fair Farmers Market and the Cobblestone Farmers Market. I’ve had the opportunity to become friends with the farmers who sell at these markets. We talk, trade, and work together. For me, it’s important to know where my food comes from.”

Chef Kevin Fisher, founder and owner of The Screaming Rooster, has similar relationships with the regional farmers. “I back my car up to the Cobblestone Market every Tuesday, and farmers call me by name. My relationships have grown so strong with some farmers that some actually deliver directly to my restaurant and call to ask what I might need each week.”

The Screaming Rooster, voted best “Farm To Table Restaurant” by SmittysNotes.com, is also strongly committed to the farm-to-fork movement. Nearly 80 percent of all its food, including bread and dairy products, is purchased from local farms and businesses. Their commitment to local sustainability is something they share with their customers, Fisher explains.

“When our customers compliment a dish, we tell them the farms we purchased the products from, and we encourage them to visit and buy from these producers.”

The farm-to-fork food movement is an emerging trend in cities across the country. For Millan, one of the biggest benefits of the movement is the reduction of the carbon footprint. “Food products that are mass-produced have been transported hundreds of miles. You use more energy to get it here than it took to grow it.” The farm-to-fork movement seeks to change the norm of restaurants buying and cooking mass-produced food. Instead, it encourages restaurants to buy locally, which in turn supports local economies, reduces the carbon footprint, and often results in higher-quality products.

As John Cahoon, co-owner and manager of Rana Loca, says, “It is initially more expensive to buy and produce organic foods, but you offset the costs in transportation and the flavor.” Locally produced food has a difference you can taste.

“Eggs are especially important to me,” Clifford says. “Quality eggs yield a much richer flavor. You can taste the difference in my muffins and egg salad.”

Chef Kevin Fisher agrees. “The quality of the food from area businesses is 110 percent. I can pick what I want from the farmers, and they sell me the best they have. You cannot only taste the difference, but you can see it. The eggs I use have tangerine-colored yolks, and that indicates flavor, freshness, and happy hens.”

Buying delicious food, supporting the local economy, and reducing our carbon footprint—it’s something that everyone in town can feel good about. “We wouldn’t have been having this discussion 10 years ago. This [farm-to-fork food movement] is really amazing. I have enjoyed watching it grow in Winston-Salem,” Clifford says.

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Sustainable dining

Here are some Winston-Salem restaurants that strive to use local products as much as possible. (Know of more we need to include? Email us and we’ll add them to the online list.)

Breakfast of Course
723 Trade St.
336-723-7239
www.breakfastofcourse.com

Camino Bakery
310B W. Fourth St.
336-721-9990
www.caminobakery.com

Meridian
411 S. Marshall St.
336-722-8889
www.meridianws.com

Mozelle’s
878 W. Fourth St.
336-703-5400
www.mozelles.com

New Town Bistro
420 Jonestown Rd.
336-659-8062
www.newtownbistro.com

Rana Loca
411 W. Fourth St.
336-722-9911
www.ranaloca.com

The Screaming Rooster
301 Brookstown Ave. #100
336-722-9090
www.wsrooster.com

Willows Bistro
300 S. Liberty St.,
Suite 125
336-293-4601
www.willowsbistro.net