If I’m remembering things right, I had my first B&G pie on the front porch of Pulliam’s Barbeque when I was 7 or 8 years old. Dad used to run my brother and me up to the venerable old shack during the summer for a round of hot dogs, bottled Cokes—and if our stomach’s permitted it—a few of the locally famous pies.

Most of back then is a blur to me now, but I can remember being content just sitting there, the hum of Smith Reynolds Airport in the distance, a Coke by my side, and a fried pie on deck for dessert. The treats seemed to make growing up in Winston-Salem just a little bit sweeter.

Fast forward a couple of decades, and I found myself wheeling through the southside of Winston-Salem en route to King Foods Inc., maker of B&G pies. The business is housed in a beautifully nondescript brick building on Old Lexington Road. An oval-shaped sign bearing B&G’s blue logo hangs from the front, serving as the building’s only identifier.

Along with photographer Jay Sinclair, I swung open the entrance doors around 8:30 a.m. That’s where, almost immediately, we found owner Chris Wilson, a smile on his face and an apron in his hand.

“Welcome to B&G guys! You ready to make some pies?”

Umm, well…not really. See, I was always good at eating the pies. Actually, I’m great at that. I was even good at putting them in the microwave. But making pies? That’s a problem. In fact, I don’t think I’ve successfully cooked anything in my life. But Chris felt the best way to appreciate all that goes into a B&G pie was to have an active hand in making one. So, donning an apron and hairnet—and feeling a lot like a school lunch lady—I went to work.

I successfully managed to cut the dough into little trapezoidal shapes and flatten it with a roller. I even put a little scoop of chocolate filling at the top. The trouble came when I tried to roll my pie into its customary semi-circular shape. Somehow, my dough didn’t fold over like I imagined. Instead, it crumpled into disaster, looking more like a toddler’s Play-Doh project than anything edible.

Susie Gibbons, the B&G employee assigned to “teach” me the art of pie-making, took one look at the pie and laughed. “Oh, it’ll be alright.” She did her best to repair the tainted pastry before sending it to the frying screen. “Whoever gets that one is getting something special.”

To an extent, she’s right. Everyone who gets a B&G pie is getting something special. As Chris likes to say, “There’s a lot of love that goes into these pies.”

After making the filling, each treat is cut, rolled, filled, crimped, fried, wrapped, and boxed by hand. The company has 10 part-time employees, and they make anywhere from 4,000 to 5,000 pies a day. In addition, King Foods also makes the D-Lish: a no-bake oatmeal, chocolate and peanut butter cookie.

B&G got its start in 1949 when cousins Alton Bodenheimer and G.M. Griffin opened up shop on South Marshall Street. The company experienced a surge of success in the 1960s and 1970s, when vending machines in local textile, tobacco, and manufacturing plants started carrying the pies.

In 1985, the city developed plans for condos along South Marshall Street, forcing B&G to move to its current location.

If loyalty had an address, it’d probably be 2400 Old Lexington Road. Many of the workers have been with B&G for 20, 30, even 50 years. Take Grady Browder for instance. He arrived at the company in 1955 at age 18 straight from a Surry County farm, eventually working his way up to plant manager. While his role has been reduced in recent years, he’s still up at B&G most mornings “keeping them in line,” he says, smiling.

This sense of pride and devotion isn’t lost on Chris. “The people here have a tremendous respect for the history and brand they’re representing,” he says. “There’s just something about these pies that makes us fiercely loyal to them. It’s like magic.”

For his part, Chris has given the employees something to be proud of. Since buying the company a year ago, B&G’s sales are tracking an 82 percent increase. He credits an aggressive push to get B&G into convenient locations as the reason. For years, it seemed the pies were sold only at mom-and-pop shops and restaurants. While you can still get them there, they’re now found in local Wilco-Hess stations, 4 Brother’s, Quality Marts, Lowes Foods, and Walgreens—among other places across the state—going for $1.29.

While business is up, the pies have thankfully remained unchanged. Apple is still the top seller, followed by chocolate, peach, lemon, and cherry. The pies are still fried to a golden-brown and packaged in a colorful, nostalgic wrapper.

In 1983, Alton Bodenheimer told the Winston-Salem Journal “there’s no machine in the world that can make the pies we’ve got. We’ve got the best. It’s got to be the best, or our competitors would eat us alive.”

So, to the folks at King Foods who continue the handmade tradition, thank you. You’re making more than my favorite snack-size treat. You’re making a tasty part of this city’s history.

And to whoever opened a slightly deformed chocolate pie recently…sorry about that.

To find out where you can buy a B&G pie, call 336-784-9676 or visit bgpies.com