It’s a cold, rainy night in Winston-Salem — one of those winter evenings when it’s easy to head straight on home and microwave last night’s leftovers.

But most homes don’t boast a grand pair of stone fireplaces; or 90-year-old beams from a tobacco warehouse; or a 1,500-pound iron chandelier; or a rich, warm pine ceiling. Oh yeah, and most don’t have an antique canoe on the wall.

Open since July 2005, there’s nothing particularly new about River Birch Lodge. Still, there’s something especially tempting about dining in a cozy cabin when the weather outside is particularly frightful. Stir a superb mountain menu into an inviting atmosphere, and it’s clear why this Sherwood Forest-area restaurant has become a neighborhood hit.

“Our goal from the beginning was to build a restaurant our guests could get excited about,” says Eddie Schapira, who owns River Birch with business partner Scott Gerding. “Scott has known for years that he wanted to pursue a lodge. But I’ll never forget standing in this parking lot on top of a tall pile of wood beams — that’s when it all came together for me.”

Schapira and Gerding, co-owner of Midtown Café & Dessertery, met in 2002 when Gerding dined at Harper’s Restaurant in Charlotte — where Schapira was general manager at the time. A year went by and Gerding called to pitch his plan. “While we were building, I would drive from Charlotte two to three times a week to meet with architects,” he says. “I knew immediately that Winston would be home.”
These days Gerding works behind the scenes, while Schapira is the go-to face of the business, stopping at every table, checking on guests and greeting familiar faces. “We want all of our customers to feel cared for,” Schapira says, “whether that means calling them by name, or asking how they liked their meal.”

Undoubtedly, he hears good things. River Birch’s cuisine — defined as mountain casual — is comfortably upscale. Inspired by lodge cookbooks, the original chef developed a menu that highlights the restaurant’s rustic theme with specials ranging from Campfire Trout and Venison Medallions to Shrimp and Grits and Grilled Duck Breast.

Appetizers are a must — with signature Lodge Chips and a Wildberry Brie Platter ranking as favorites. Enough to share, the brie is wrapped with wildberry jam in a phyllo pastry and served with fruits and bread. 

Mountain-sized, the Thai Chicken Salad features hickory-grilled chicken basted in a spicy garlic-ginger sauce and tossed with mandarin oranges and fried wontons, while the Chèvre Salad offers lightly breaded, grilled goat cheese laced with diced berries, cranberries, and spiced pecans.

Other popular picks include the Cedar Planked Salmon, which is served on the plank; burgers, including elk and bison varieties; and Mama’s Lasagna, a recipe from Schapira’s “Mama.”

He says countless other contributors have been pivotal in making River Birch a reality, from expert craftsmen whose talents have perfected the lodge’s authenticity to generous lenders who saw the neighborhood’s needs. “This community has been so good to us,” Schapira notes, listing name after supportive name.

A 1988 graduate of Appalachian State University — where he met his wife, Michelle — Schapira says the mountains have always been a part of him. Combined with his love for the restaurant industry, it’s easy to see why his inviting smile is a restaurant constant. “I know I’ve found my true calling,” he explains, “and I want to reflect that in all that I do. Here, you’re not just a customer. You’re a guest, and you’re a friend.”

River Birch Lodge is at 3324 Robinhood Rd. For more information, call 336-768-1111, or go to riverbirch lodge.com.